Prague, Day 2Fri, Feb 27, 2009

I slept well despite trams outside my window and streetlights. The curtains don't close, but I had a sleeping mask and something unusual for a hostel--a locked door! The three girls who went out to meet the "man on the phone", did not come back last night. I dressed and had cereal and coffee and still they are out. No matter. It was sunny and I decided not to wear my long underwear today. Now, 2 hours later, I realize this was a mistake. It is now cloudy. But I'm sitting in the Old Town square, Staromestske namesti. I saw the astronomical clock strike 10a. What sun there is, is glinting off the solid gold Madonna and child of Tyn church. Another bit of luck on my walk here. One only rents coffee, so when I passed a WC, I picked through my pockets for a 5Kc piece (about 25 cents). The smallest I had was 10. Some workman nearby was trying to help me, probably thinking an American could not understand how to pay (which is true. We take clean rest rooms for free as a given) I showed him by coins and pointed to the smallest! "Ah!" He said and made a sign that he would be right back. He walked to a van and I thought he would bring back change. Instead he brought a wrench. He used it to open a compartment, flip a switch and the cabinet opened. He gallantly bowed, and ushered me in! My knight in shinning coveralls! I had been a damsel in distress! When I write the guide to "The Free Pee" I will add this story. When I travel, it is not the things I don't understand that surprise me. I am used to how very ignorant I am. I am taken aback by the things I do understand. For instance, hot pants seem to be back in style among young women. They are worn with dark tights and boots, but they are still a questionable fashion choice. Particularly when the temperature barely rises above freezing. The other thing is the number of Kentucky Fried Chicken places. You wind between narrow passages, buildings from the middle ages or art Nouveau facades. Then you turn the corner and almost run into a larger than life cutout of the Colonel. Chilling. But at least it's not McDonalds. Later, 5pmI think I have been walking nonstop for about 6 hours now. My tour was a walking overview of Prague, though it did not cover all it advertised. Frankly, I was thankful because I was not sure how much more I could walk. The tour was given by a student, Peter, who turned out to be studying Chinese. He gave a fair overview to the Old Town, Jewish Quarter, Charles Bridge and the Castle. Now that I am oriented to these areas I will go back on my own to investigate more thoroughly. I have not yet figured out the trams and subway, but must learn or I will have no feet left on these cobblestones and mosaic walkways. Truly, hard as stone and not forgiving. Climbing to the Prague Castle was a true killer. It is the highest point around and the view of the Lesser Quarter (Male Strana), river and old town beyond is quite impressive. I must work harder in my walking group on uphill and stairways! Back at the Golden Sickle hostel, there is no sign of the three girls from last night who were in the first room. But the middle room is now quite occupied by "8 lads" the young British man told me. We had a laugh that I should expect singing and snoring, but I asked if he could keep the dancing to a minimum. If you want restful sleep every night, simply don't stay in a hostel. I am prepared with ear plugs, eye shades and sleeping pills. And if that isn't enough I shall be quite LOUD in the morning since I'm bound to be up before them. The woman at the desk plans to move me tonight tomorrow. Let's hope I get some sleep. I've taken a shower while the hostel is quiet. I started this trend as a way to assure privacy and hot water and it works so well and is so reviving I now do it even at home. The only dilemma is that my travel hair dryer seems to be overheating and shuts off. This is not the weather I'd chosen for wet head. 7pm--I am celebrating my birthday with an adventure. I am sitting in an Absinthe house trying the "green muse" as Toulouse Lautrec called it. I've had it served to me with a flaming cube of sugar! Who needs birthday candles! Actually I've agreed to try it two ways--hot and cold. Absinthe was favored by many artists, including Hemingway. Made of wormwood it's been thought to be mildly poisonous. The consumption did "inspire" painters and writers, but many died, causing it to be outlawed in some countries. Recently, it has been clear that the substance may have been adulterated, plus ANY alcohol is poisonous if drunk in large quality. So you can find Absinthe legally once again. I tried it once, straight, in Venice. I thought it vile. I gave a bottle of it away to a street performer in lieu of a tip and he hugged and kissed me. That made me think there could be more to this drink. And there is. It is served either hot--with a flaming cube of sugar dissolved into a shot. Or cold, with water slowly dripped over a cube that sits on a specially made spoon. The spoon is flat (no bowl) and slotted. The cube sits on the spoon hat straddle the rim of a glass containing a shot of absinthe. The hot preparation is downed quickly and then chased with a second sugar cube. The "cold" method (using room temperature water) is sipped slowly. If it is too strong, you add more water. It is all too strong for me and I will have to walk it off before dinner! I've chosen a different beer hall for dinner. More modern, no long tables were people sit together. I've ordered a Pilsner Urquell, the most common beer in the Czech Republic. If this is a "short" I fear what a large looks like! I order the Cottager's Sparrow for dinner--pork back w/sausage and mushrooms. It comes with dumplings which are almost raw dough (I love this, though most would not) and a sour kraut that is almost creamy in texture. The meat covered with gravy that has mushrooms and onion. If I lived here, I would never lose any weight! All the foods are heavy, filling. All bars and restaurants are smoking. I am full and tipsy. Good thing I am close to my hostel. I hope I can sleep through the noise of the 8 lads in the room next to me!