Prague, Day 6 Tue, Mar 03, 2009

I must have been making up for lost sleep--or just wearing myself out. I slept about 11 hours last night. Even though I had cereal and 2 cups of coffee, I may lay down for a nap. I was the first one up this morning--in truth anyone up before noon will be. I tiptoed through the boys room. Made my morning ablutions as quietly as possible. Started the water pot for instant coffee. Reached for a "clean" mug (trust nothing is really clean) and snagged a plate with my sleeve which came crashing to the floor. The entire floor stopped in mid snore. Darn! I wanted to be the quiet one! There was nothing to do but clean up the mess. I had on shoes, thankfully, and so I went about picking up the larger pieces. There was no broom to sweep up the smaller ones and I know all the men go about bare foot. In the end, I wet paper towels and went over the floor hoping to pick up all the small pieces. I certainly got most of them, but feel I deserve at least an associate’s degree in archeology for the layers of "civilization" I scrubbed up as well. I will NEVER go barefoot in a hostel. One thing I keep noticing--usually in the seedy sections of town--is "Black Light" Theater. No idea what this is, but suspect it isn't a show you'd tell your mother you attended. Find it interesting that it is usually described as "Traditional". How many traditions include electricity? 2pm--I don't know how it is for others, but I spend a good deal of time simply lost when I travel. This morning after a late start, I managed to hit all three metro lines before I got to my stop at Vyshrad. Clearly I only needed 2, but if you get on the wrong way even once.... But now is a good time to mention how very polite I find the Czech people. They are exceptionally courteous in the Metro--on par with Londoners. And judging by the book shops and the number of people carrying books, people read here. It is a good sign. What started off as a lark--a walk through Vysehrad, has turned into a lovely day and so interesting! The weather was not lovely because it rained all day, but once I finally got off on the right metro stop I found an historic park along the Vltava. According ancient legend Vysehrad (hrad means castle) was the first seat of the Premyslids, the original ruling dynasty, in the early 800AD. There are ruins of 10th century churches and fortifications, beneath 14th century fortification build by Charles IV. I passed right under the impressive Leopold (II) gate, part of a 17th century wall. These were widened further by the French in the early 18th. It makes your head spin. All of it allowed amazing vistas of Prague, though I don't know how well my photographs will look in the rain and mist. Just below Vysejrad rock was a small underground museum, part of the fortification, that wasn't in my guide book. For 30Kc ($1.50) I got to read quite a bit of history and just as much myth. The park adjoins the SS Peter and Paul Church, founded by Vratislav II in the 11 Century. The current building has foundation from the mid-13th Century (though excavations show a Roman Bridge beneath one corner) which has been build, rebuilt and renovated many times. The twin spires that dominate the skyline are Neo-Gothic, finished in 1902. The Cemetery here is the most beautiful I've ever seen. A clash of styles, it was founded in 1869 as a burial place for Czech's most famous citizens. I photographed Dvorak grave site and a few dozen others. On the way out of the park, I photographed a tiny Romanesque church, built in late 11th century, St Martin's Rotunda. And my guidebook identified a". "Devil's Column" that supposedly sprang up after the Devil lost a bet with a clergyman. It wasn't marked in any way. It would have been difficult to identify much of this area without a good guidebook.Back on the Metro and I was feeling so good (my feet have been sore, but today's walk was not so much stone) I decided to explore the Little Quarter (Male Strana) that sits below Prague castle. I visited St Nicholas' Church (Kostel sv Mikulase). Building began in 1703. It is an amazing Baroque church. The ceiling frescos are in poor shape, but the rest of the church is lovely. They have an organ Mozart played. You must see the photos. I walked around the square and took photos of the buildings and the Castle high above. Walked back across the Charles Bridge and through the Charles Gate. The rain had stopped by then and I did a bit of window shopping. The glassware and figurines are lovely, but I don't know how I'd get any of it home in one piece. On a lark I went in the museum of Medieval Torture Instruments because the lovely British ladies who were exiting so recommended it. It was really interesting in a morbid way. 7pm I am now at UBubenickU, listed as a traditional Czech restarance. I'm having a dark (tmave) beer (pivo) which my watress assured me has less alcohol than light (svetle). For supper I have ordered Staroceska svickova (old Bohemian sirloin) which the menu says is beef in cream sauce with lemon, cranberries and whipped cream. I can't imagine this is good, but every traditional menu has had something like it, so that should mean something. Sure enough the meat arrives with whipped cream straight from a can piped on top. The meat is tough but flavorful and the gravy is sweet. I can taste the lemon. It works, though I would never have put this together myself. And with the dumplings, I won't have to leave a drop of the gravy behind! It is interesting to question the bill because unlike in the US, the price is not the price. I was charged for dumplings (that I didn't order, but were added to my plate), "bread and paper" (I assume she meant my napkin?) And service. Still it' hard to argue with the price. The meal came to 210Kc ($11.50) and was more than I could eat. I find that my ear is beginning to understand a little of the language. I can now hear when my stop is called on the metro and respond Dobry den when someone greets me. I was able to say prosim vas when I bumped into someone today (please forgive me). Still working on thank you, Dekuji vam (DIE ku ji VAHM). The main reason I travel in the off season is $, of course. But there are other advantages. For instance, I look a bit like a homeless bag lady when I travel. I'm usually tired, about half sick and disheveled at best. And the older I get the less attractive "disheveled" looks. I don't say these things to complain. It is well worth the price to me. But traveling during winter you find that everyone is dragging coats, scarves and has "hat hair". My naturally ruddy completion only looks like I've been in the cold like everyone else. And at least my straight hair remains so with a quick comb through. In short, I think I fit in and look less like a tourist, an ugly American. Well, until I open my mouth, that is. After dinner, I took a walk along the river Vltava and tried again to get a photo at night of the Prague Castle and the National Theatre. Better than last night in the rain, but still probably not good. When I got back to the hostel I found I no longer have a private room. I didn't pay for one, so really I've just been lucky so far. Fernando is from Spain but has worked in England and Florida, so his English is quite good. He is currently watching a movie. Most everyone seems to bring laptops. I thought it would be too heavy and fragile plus I was afraid it would be stolen. Tomorrow is my last day as I'll be leaving so very early Thursday. In some ways it seems like I've just gotten here, but in others I feel like I've actually settled in a bit. It seemed so very "foreign" when I got here, but now things are beginning to seem normal.